![]() Level 5 can’t level the surface of the wall or eliminate many of the defects that plainly show in critical lighting areas, or where higher gloss finishes are used. So yes, a properly-executed Level 5 finish will eradicate the drywall paper texture - but there’s a popular misconception that it can also repair ‘proud’ or ‘poor’ seams, humps and bumps, or other defects. As an alternate to a skim coat, a material manufactured especially for this purpose shall be applied.” Excess compound is immediately sheared off, leaving a film of skim coating compound completely covering the paper. “A thin skim coat of joint compound shall be trowel-applied to the entire surface. Here’s the defining clause in a Level 5 Drywall Finish as described in ASTM C840’s Standard Specification for Application and Finishing of Gypsum Board: And although Level 5 consistently provides better results than Level 4, unfortunately it’s no guarantee of a perfect finish. So now, we specify a Level 5 Drywall Finish to guarantee an acceptable surface in areas of critical lighting or where a glossier finish is required. And regulations have moved the industry to virtually eliminate alkyds for interior walls, replacing them with multiple coats of latex at a higher cost and lower volume solids, which means less material is deposited to smooth out the surface. That enamel undercoat could then be topcoated with an eggshell or semigloss alkyd, especially on walls subject to abrasion, marking, or wet areas (bathrooms, showers, janitor closets) - and there was no discussion of texture imperfections telegraphing through the surface.įlash forward to today: alkyd undercoat enamels are, in our experience, virtually never specified for new construction products, and a sandable, inexpensive, VOC-compliant replacement does not appear to exist. It was inexpensive and offered the additional benefit of being sandable, versus the latex intermediates we use today that don’t buff down like an alkyd can. This enamel undercoat was thick enough to mask fine surface irregularities and fill the paper texture. Here’s a history lesson: not so very long ago, walls finished with an ASTM Level 4 Drywall Finish could be finished with one coat of latex sealer followed by a very different intermediate than we commonly use today namely, an enamel (alkyd) undercoat such as the products approved under MPI #46. It depends on a variety of factors - including whether or not you ask a painter or a drywall finisher. Question: can an ASTM Level 5 Drywall Finish produce a satisfactory painted finish in critical lighting areas and/or when using higher sheen paints? Is he correct or selling me false hope? I'm ready to put new baseboards in b/c it currently looks like junkġ.) What is the best way forward with this stipple?.Based on the experience of Paint Quality Assurance inspector Dave Lick And assured me sanding the window benches and baseboards will smooth it again. One painter said I can spend $2k labor to " precop" flat as the best way to reflatten before priming. It did knock the stipple off and there was a "sealed smooth sheen" left over. I did test sand a "test area" with 220 grit. Is sanding realistic or will I have to go to the even higher expense of re-mudding/skimming? And, if so, how do I proceed? Do I need to use the expense of re-priming or can I just paint. QUESTION: How can I salvage my beautiful flat walls? It's SANDABLE prime paint so can I take a 220 grit sanding pole and knock off the stipple. RESULT: I now have stipple on the walls and dust under the prime paint of windows and baseboards. The painter DIDN'T prep dust the new drywall dust off the walls/ceiling or even the dust off the dust on the baseboards or new window benches. He sprayed then his associate backrolled using. Then I hired a painter to Prime paint Kelly Moore Level 5 sandable primer/sealer. I recently had LEVEL 5 mudding installed over old texture wall (ceiling & walls).
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